Matt’s Birthday – Single Cask Glendronachs

Black & Gold Glendronach Single Casks

For some time now Matt has been the custodian of a selection of extremely rare Black & Gold Single Cask Glendronachs, acquired through an auction.

It was coming up Matt’s birthday.

And what better way to celebrate his birthday than a whisky or eight with whisky-appreciating friends on a sunny Saturday afternoon.

Matt is a well-liked, well-respected member of the whisky fraternity and sorority.  Any one of the invitees would be happy to help celebrate his birthday.  Any one would also probably happily attend the opening of an envelope, let alone any kind of a whisky bottle.

Matt’s birthday and the opening of six Glendronach whiskies was a total no-brainer.

Apart from the undoubted quality of his whisky stocks, Matt also has an interesting view on experimentation.  Here is his take on sensory deprivation:  serve an introductory dram in a black, totally opaque tasting glass: the Introductory Dram

The glass is the same shape and size as a normal tasting glass.  You just can’t see the contents.

Believe me, not being able to see what you’re drinking is a very unusual experience indeed.

The line-up of Glendronachs in front of each taster is universally dark.  In the 1.7 to 1.8 range, like the scantily-clad models in an old Coppertone ad.  The whiskies are all so similar in hue that they could have all been poured from the same bottle.

The dram in the opaque glass smells and tastes as if it would be just as dark as the others

This introductory whisky is subsequently revealed as a Glendronach 9yo, 59.1%, but from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society range.  Entitled “Rocky road spice freakout” (36.22), it is one of 278 bottles matured in a first fill ex-PX sherry hogshead.  The nose and taste are very similar to the other offerings but when it is decanted from black opaque into a clear glass it is comparatively much lighter in colour – nearer a 1.0.  Not at all what was expected!

The Whiskies

The six single cask, Brown & Gold Glendronachs.  And a ringer.

Here, then, is Matt’s glass by glass summary of we tasted, with details and scores.  To quote Matt’s post-event write-up, “We tore through some amazing whiskies, and a lot of info was thrown at you”.

I have added some tasting notes distilled (pardon the pun) from the whiteboard record taken at the time by MC, Daniel Bruce McLaren.  All of the whiskies are Glendronachs, with the exception of one that Matt put in to keep us all honest.  And, to be honest, I don’t think that anyone picked the “ringer” for what it was.  However, its placing indicated that “one of these is not like the others”.

These are group notes and average scores across the tasters.  Although it bears no relevance to anything much, for this website’s consistency I have put my score in brackets after the group score.

Glass #1: 

2002, 10 year old, Cask #1988, Bottle 360 of 664, 55.6%, PX Puncheon, Distilled: 03/07/2002, Bottled: 05/2013.
Nose: PX?, sulphur, sweet, banana chips, baby sick, grapefruit marmalade, rubber, Vegemite, barbecue, balsamic mushrooms.
Palette: tobacco, sweet, honey, vanilla.
Finish: Fizzy sherbet, coffee
Score: 9.35 (8.7).
Placed: 5=

Glass #2:

1995, 17 year old, Cask #4682, Bottle 428 of 631, 56.6%, PX Puncheon, Distilled: 08/11/1995, Bottled: 03/2013, Specially Selected and Bottled Exclusively for the Whisky Exchange (Brown & Gold Sleeve).
Nose: drier & deeper than glass 1, salty licorice, bright.
Palette: sweet, burnt golden syrup, smooth.
Finish: coffee, dries out, oloroso tang, celery, chicory log.
Score: 9.43, (8.6)
Placed: 3=.

Glass #3:

1993, 17 year old, Cask #529, Bottle 56 of 627, 60.5%, Oloroso Sherry Butt, Distilled: 26/02/1993, Bottled: 06/2010.
Nose: sublime. Xmas cake, treacle, a lot of leather, cream & butter, too woody, chocolate, spearmint.
Palette: dry, lip smacking, mouth coating.
Finish: wood, tannins, rubber, super-sour lollies.
Score: 9.35 (8.8).
Placed: 5=.

Glass #4:

Kavalan Solist Sherry Cask (The Ringer), Non-Age Statement, Cask #S090102006, Bottle: 268 of 505, 55.6%.
Nose: gravy, rubber, soy sauce, fruit cake, pumice, old cigar, hot old car.
Palette: licorice, Vegemite, gravy, bitter dark chocolate.
Finish: butter, cask dominated.
Score: 8.96 (8.5).
Placed: 7th

Glass #5:

1992, 19 year old, Cask #161, Bottle 361 of 500, 59.2%, Oloroso Sherry Butt, Distilled: 22/05/1992, Bottled: 07/2011.
Nose: malt vinegar, green wood, bamboo, broad beans, bourbon, Vicks VapouRub, mouldy old soft toy, bath salts.
Palette: liquer, caramel. Smooth, sweet, sherry (PX?).
Finish: smooth as silk knickers, dry coffee, dark plums.
Score: 9.85 (9.2).
Placed: 1st

Glass #6:

1991, 18 year old, Cask #3182, Bottle 52 of 633, 51.7%, PX Puncheon, Distilled: 15/11/1991, Bottled: 06/2010.
Nose: jersey caramel, big, brulee, dusty, fish tank, indoor grandprix, blackcurrant jam, denim, sultanas, grubby, complex.
Palette: exhaust, subdued, sappy, scented knickers.
Finish: cinnamon, spice, sarsaparilla.
Score: 9.43 (8.9).
Placed: 3=

Glass #7:

1996, 18 year old, Cask #1487, Bottle 418 of 677, 54.1%, PX Puncheon, Distilled: 16/02/1996, Bottled: 06/2014.
Nose: putty, charred, furniture polish, wet nappy, lemon meringue pie, rye & ink, hint of smoke, soap.
Palette: dirty, THC, fizzy, lemon sherbet, smooth.
Finish: sweet, salt drops, wine gums.
Score: 9.72 (9.3).
Placed: 2nd

My overall opinion?  I have seldom had such an entertaining and enjoyable afternoon.

And I’m very glad Karen was there to drive us home afterwards!

Here is the Glendronach page showing the Single Cask Batch Releases.

Until next time…+

(PS: Spell-checker does not like “Glendronach”.  Thinks it should be Philodendron – I’m damned sure we weren’t drinking them!)

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Tasmanian Devils

Tasmanian Devils

To avoid confusion, this article has nothing to do with the four-legged Tasmanian devils.  It does have a lot do with some devilishly good Tasmanian whisky.

The growth of the Tasmanian whisky industry

According to Wikipedia, there were nine whisky distilleries in Tasmania in 2014.  There are now 31, with more planned!

Which makes Tasmania an attractive destination for the whiskian (be-whiskered?)

The obvious distilleries are Hobart’s Lark, Hellyer’s Rd in the northwest, and the picturesque Nant distillery south of Launceston.

Planning a short holiday in Tasmanian with Evelyn, I looked for distilleries we could conveniently visit.

Uncle Google (bless him) lit up Fannys Bay Distillery.

An hour and a half’s drive from our accommodation base, via selected Tamar Valley wineries.  And the website detail really whets my interest: small batch, hand-made drams.  Sherry and bourbon expressions, obviously, but also a strong wine cask series of whiskies from port, shiraz and pinot.

Fannys Bay Distillery has a view of Bass Strait restricted only by some sandhills and a few seaside plants.  The local wind blows the salt spray about.  It gets onto the house roofs and – by extension – the tank water supply.  Which adds a slightly maritime note to the drams.

The distillery is owner-operated by husband and wife, Mathew and Julie Cooper.

Mathew is largely a self-taught distiller, but I suspect that knowledge-gathering is something he is very practiced at!  There are some innovative ideas in the distillery – the gas hot water boiler being a major one, which Mathew says allows him better heat control.

Julie and Mathew are the most engaging of hosts.  They are very proud to talk about their drams, their production methods and whisky in general.  During an extremely pleasurable (and educative) couple hours in their company I tasted my way through four whiskies and a cup of coffee.  Then, as a “leaving present”, they gave me a large sample of their latest, magnificent, pinot-matured whisky.

Fannys Bay product is matured in 20 litre barrels.  When I first saw the racks, I was a little surprised, but if you think about the increased wood contact of small casks it makes sense.  The whiskies come in attractive squared bottles, with Julie adding a hand-completed label to each one.

The racks.  20 litre casks.

The tastings.

Sherry Cask
Barrel 48, First fill French Oak.  2.5 years.  Bottled 8 April 2019 at 62.3%
Appearance: holds well on the glass. Colour 1.3
Nose:  marine, dried fruit and brown sugar
Palette: Pepper, fruit, smooth.
Finish: slightly tannic, and slightly sour (possibly from the European oak?)
Comment: Very nice, how I expect a sherried whisky to taste.  The effect of the small casks is apparent, as is the salt air.
Score: 8.4

Port Cask
Barrel 61.  First fill French Oak, bottled 12 July 2019 at 62.5%
Appearance: hangs on well, good legs. Colour 1.5
Nose: Fruit (dried apricots), vine, brown sugar
Palette: soft and rich.  Mouth filling
Finish: long
Comment: want one, got one!
Score:8.9

Shiraz Cask
Barrel 61, First fill French Oak, bottled September 2019 at 63%
Appearance: hangs on well. Colour 1.8 (dark!)
Nose: Dark chocolate, red wine
Palette: back of the nose, pepper, shiraz (the dark chocolate), cranberries.
Finish: a late delicious nutmeg-flavoured steamed pud!
Comment: Evelyn’s favourite.  She wanted one, we got one (she may not get to drink a lot of it though).
Score: 8.7

Bourbon Cask

Two bourbon cask bottles, different cask numbers


Barrel 50, First fill American Oak, bottled 6 July 2019 at 62.5%
Colour: 0.7
Appearance: great legs.
Nose: nutty, sacking, vanilla (as you would expect)
Palette: Hot (from the alcohol), tastes of pepper, no bourbon sourness, some wood.
Finish: long, slightly tannic, bourbon sourness.
Score: 8.8

And then my “take-home” drop, the Pinot.

Pinot Cask
Barrel 20, bottled at 62%
Appearance: Rich colour, dark amber, stays on the glass.  Colour 1.1.
Nose: dried apricot, dark Rum & Raisin chocolate, cooked Black Doris plums.  No direct wine nose, which Is odd considering the cask provenance.  Hint of vanilla when the glass is hand-warmed.
Palette: chilli hot, pinot, BITEY.  Big mouth, dry + heat on tongue.  Slight sour (from wood?).
Finish: heat stays around, affecting my gums.  Long finish, warming my thorax.  Nice sour note, tannic.
Score: 8.9
Comment: With reduction, the nose is more vanilla, Christmas cake fruit & figs.  Brown sugar, but still no red wine!
The palette softens, with no harsh heat and less chilli.  Banana/Eskimo lollies.
The finish shortens a little, drying, sour like a bourbon cask.

My “take homes”.
Port on the right, Shiraz on the left.

Visit the Fannys Bay distillery website – it’s worth it!

Some personal thoughts on “young” whiskies

Now here is something I did not know – Tasmanian law requires only a 2-year maturation before the product is able to be called whisky.

I have read articles recently by whisky scribes far more learned than me.  They seem to decry the practice of drinking just-legal whiskies, saying they really should be kept in the wood for longer to develop “character”.

They may be right, but I have recently tried and written about Cardrona’s output (bottled at 3 years and 1 day) and now the Fannys Bay whiskies (coming out at not much over the 2-year mark).  In India the maturation rate is so impacted by humidity that the whisky needs to be bottled early to avoid it disappearing from the cask totally – if it were left in the barrel for 20 years the Angel’s Share could quickly become the Lion’s Share.  There would be nothing left to bottle!  And who can go past Amrut Spectrum?

Yes, it would be interesting to see how these whiskies would turn out if they were allowed to run on to 10 or 12 years, but they are by no means short on character now!

And I will happily go back to Tasmania for some more Devils.

The Main Event – Scotch 22 Strathisla

These are tasting notes from an invitation event held in Christchurch.

The notes are provided by Ian Stopher and Mel Bromley.  I am very grateful to them both for allowing me to use their writings here on the site.  And I am considerably jealous!

I have identified each author’s contribution for (to quote Mel) “… anybody who is interested in playing along vicariously.”

Acronyms used in the descriptions:

FFSB: First fill sherry butt
FFSH: First fill sherry hogshead
RSB: Refill sherry butt

In the course of the writing, Mel came up with a couple of new phrases:

  • “single cash Glendronachs”. When you can only afford to buy one at a time?, and
  • “Highlandronach”. The offspring of Highland Park and Glendronach.

They may well join the lexicon of whisky terminology.

A starter for 10 –

Ian:  I turned up at Whisky Galore at 5pm to make some purchases. I told them I was interested in the Single Malts of Scotland Aird Mhor, so I gave it a whirl before buying a bottle (at $83 for a cask strength 8yo it was going to be hard to resist).

Aird Mhor: 8yo 59.4% (ex-Laphroaig Cask)

Nose: yes of course peat, but in amongst the bourbon notes there is something more coastal like salt grass or maybe fresh seaweed. I have no idea where Laphroaig is actually matured but there is that tang of the coast. More like a Caol Ila than an Ardmore.
Palate: clean, not as dry as some Ardmores, but still staying away from the sweet; some tart gooseberries
Finish: just short of medium; it leaves something of a synthetic hole, nothing too alarming but not the satisfying ebb I was hoping for. Perhaps the youth shows through here.
Overall: I have tried very hard not to let the cask autosuggest things that possibly are not there. I think the nose is superior, the palate is fine but the finish is a bit lacking if I was to compare it to other cask strength Ardmores. This is a decent cask strength Ardmore and I like the novelty of knowing the provenance of the cask. At the price paid this is a no-brainer.

Score: 8.2

On to The Main Event

The main event is a Scotch 22 tasting of six Strathisla whiskies, with a mite bit of age and all first fill sherry of some sort. All 43%. (Ian’s description).

Glass 1: 1963-2011 (48yo) Two FFSB (but American Oak it seems)

Colour:
     Mel: Colour lightest of the line.
Nose:
     Ian: spirity, dark hay, herbal
Mel: varnish, stonefruit, pineapple lumps, tinned plums, mahogany, apple crumble with cinnamon
Palate:
     Ian: Watery, delicate, some floral elements
     Mel: Stonefruit, hints of dark bitter chocolate, raisins, creamy, hint of liquorice and nice cigars.
Finish:
     Ian: medium
Overall:
     Ian: it is interesting as a FFSB.  If is American Oak, that might explain the light colour.
Score:
     Ian: 8.3
     Mel: 8.5

Glass 2: 1957-2013 (55yo) FFSB

Nose:
     Ian: resin, marker pen, a bit coastal
     Mel: marshmellow, tinned peaches, hint of chocolate, sherry prominent, creamy, musty, orange peel.
Palate:
     Ian: dense, herbal
     Mel: Dark chocolate, musty, grapefruit, tannin notes, sweet but balanced, cocoa, strong woody notes
Finish:
     Ian: wow, woody bitterness
Overall:
     Ian: This is a bit of an oddball Strathisla. I am not a fan of the woodiness in the finish which brings down the overall score but until that point, it has a rather marked interest.
Score:
     Ian: 8.5
     Mel: 8.9

Glass 3: 1972 -2013 (40yo) RSB+FFSH

Nose:
     Ian: yes sherry, what else?
     Mel: Creaming soda, sweet, caramel, caramello chocolates, sponge cake, hint of rum ‘n’ raisin ice-cream.
Palate:
     Ian: fruity, like a condensed distillate, some dryness
     Mel: chocolate, malt biscuits, (slightly soapy?), stewed apricots, slight Cuban cigar notes again, bit tinny.
Finish:
     Ian: medium (just)
Score:
     Ian: 8.4
     Mel: 8.3 Loved the nose a lot more than the palate – that hint of soap dragged the score down for me.

Glass 4: 1964-2013 (48yo) FFSB

Nose:
     Ian: dark cherry and Oloroso
     Mel: Chocolate, Rum n Raisin truffles, plums, tobacco, marmalade, gorgeous, stunning, apricots, raisins, Christmas cake
Palate:
     Ian: sappy, some dark fruits, definitely prunes
     Mel: Chocolate, raisins, coffee, liquorice, marmalade. I commented: “If Glendronach and Highland Park had a baby …”
Finish:
     Ian: wood; but there is a fruitiness in amongst the tannins
Overall:
     Ian: immensely dark and the best overall of the six; where this wins is in the delivery rather than the nose, reminding me of the fruitiness of my Lochside. Delicious!
Score:
     Ian: 8.7
     Mel: 9.5 [I was feeling very happy by this point! And enjoying the whole concept I had come up with of the Highlandronach …]

Glass 5: 1960-2014 (53yo) FFSB+ FFSH+RAH

Nose:
     Ian: engine oil, cloves
     Mel: Sulphur, burnt toffee, orange rind, chocolate, Christmas cake, marzipan
Palate:
     Ian: medicinal, cough syrup
     Mel: Dark chocolate, oranges, tinned mandarins, tobacco, rust (the good kind), creamy.  I also noted down “Stunning dark mahogany colour”
Finish:
     Ian: medium->long
Overall:
     Ian: too old and too over-the-top in the finish, way too much woodiness. Whatever they have done to ameliorate this by the combination of three casks is not enough for my personal preference.
Score:
     Ian: 8.4
     Mel: 9.3

Glass 6: 1954-2013 (59yo) FFSB

Nose:
     Ian: wow, icing sugar, sugar cream, this is amazing
     Mel: Cocoa, chocolate, strawberry cream, plums (My favourite nose – despite the lack of descriptors, maybe I just stopped making as many notes!)
Palate:
     Ian: tarry, flat coca cola
     Mel: Caramel (tastes higher than 43%), plum, cigars, hokey pokey chocolate, butterscotch
Finish:
     Ian: medium->long; dry, with some resin
Overall:
     Ian: the nose of something this old and fantastic, this is one to just smell. It gives no indication of being old at all. However, come the delivery itself it makes itself clear. This is wood and tar and although not as bitter as some old Strathislas it still has many of those aspects that I don’t appreciate in old sherry maturation. So a mixed bag overall but that nose, what made that?Score:
     Ian: 8.6 (but 9.6 for the nose only)
     Mel: 9.4

Overall Event summary

Mel:
“It was great to get to taste this range of seriously aged whiskies all from the same distillery!

“Although they were all bottled at 43% (which can often seem low), they generally all appeared to be higher strength and did not suffer from the relatively low alcohol per volume.

“There were some common characteristics that came through – Speyside notes of chocolate and various stone fruits, and sometimes a bit of orange or marmalade, and in a number of them a very nice touch of Cuban cigar!

“Delicious though they were, would I pay the price to own them?  At more than NZ$19,000 for the set, or an average of around NZ$3,200 for a bottle – definitely not.  (Give me 7 or 8 single cask Glendronachs, thanks!).  Delicious – enjoyable –overpriced!”

Ian:
 “There you have it and you don’t need to suffer the next day as I did.”

The Cat and the Cream

 

 

Three Single Malts and Two Blends to taste

Here’s five new tastings for you.

I’d like to find a way to join them up, but it’s difficult.

Travel has given me personal connection with the first two.

The third has been in New Zealand wine barrels.

The last two I just like.

Close enough!

Inchmurrin 15yo

Inchmurrin – the most beautiful bottle!

15yo, 46% abv, colour 0.4

Loch Lomond Distillery, Dunbartonshire.

The whisky is named after the largest island on Loch Lomond.

We took a boat cruise around Loch Lomond three summers ago.

According to the tour guide, Inchmurrin is the headquarters of the local Sun Club.  “Not the ideal place to be a nudist.” I thought at the time. “Bit chilly, even in summer.”

Maybe that’s where the idea for Smurfs originated?

All that aside, this is a very drinkable whisky.  It’s attractiveness starts with the presentation, even before the cork has been pulled.  Inchmurrin 15yo comes in the most beautiful bottle ever:  a transparent label puts a black silhouetted scene of hunters, pipers, deer and mountains against the golden background of the whisky.

Nose:  A complex nose, with a whole lot going on.  There is fresh fruit and pear juice, the grassy note of dewy green grass in the early morning, and the spicy woodiness of nutmeg.
Palette: Woody and oaky like a wine.  The pear juice sweetness in the nose comes through into the palette, and a slight background of boiled Brussel sprouts.
Mouthfeel: Astringent and sharp, drying.
Length: Medium/long, with a delightful warm after-effect.
Comment: Complex and very drinkable.

Score: 7.8

 

Longrow Red

Longrow Red

53.1% abv, 11yo, peated Campbelltown single malt.

From the label:

“Matured for 8 years in bourbon barrels, followed by 3 yrs in Refill Pinot Noir Barriques from Central Otago, NZ.”

Nose: Peaty and smoky, with smoked kippers.  There are a few off-notes at the start, with a bit of sulphur, rubber, and a match-head.  A sweetness of brown sugar comes later.  The nose changes with time – the matchheads grow, and so does the sweetness.
Palette: Pepper, sea salt, smoked cheese and an oil coat.  The smoke drops away, leaving a seaside brine with an oily residue, but the tongue quite dry.
Comment:  The dryness is likely an effect of the red wine barrels.  Anticipation of this dram has been high{ the actuality, sadly, I found slightly disappointing.

Most Campbelltown drams are good; this one, not so much.

Score: 7.2

 

Ailsa Bay

Ailsa Bay display

Girvan Distillery.  48.9% abv,  colour 1.0

On the same trip as we learned about the sun club on Inchmurrin, I attended a whisky tasting event at the Edinburgh Surgeons’ Hall.

One of the drams at the event was Ailsa Bay, a whisky I had never heard of before – and which, I suspect, a lot of people in New Zealand have still not heard of.  We were told the bottle being sampled was one of the last available, that we were very fortunate to being tasting it, and that it was no longer procurable.

I remember taking the photo (above) as a memento of the display and thinking that, if I ever saw it again, I would grab a bottle very fast indeed.

Now here we are, three years later, and I got one!

Nose: Strong peat, like a hairy Ardbeg.  There is peat and smoked cheese, with the vegetal taste of boiled cabbage and cooked frozen peas.
Palette: After that nose, it goes without saying that there is Peat.  Strangely, though, there is a big sweetness that goes sweeter with more sips.  The end is drying.
Finish: Long (peat), and nutty.
Comment: I was surprised to find this degree of peatiness – I really don’t remember it from the first tasting.  But my original instincts to get one were correct!  This whisky really grows on you as you drink it.

And it leaves you with a delightful chest-warming sensation.

Score: 7.8

 

Johnny Walker Game of Thrones, White Walker

Johnny Walker – White Walker

41.7%, colour 0.3

This is the JW that you keep in the freezer.  Cold.

Nose: Coriander and fruity lemon zest, with meaty leather as it warms (“warm”, here, is a relative temperature, still below zero!).
Palette: Unsurprisingly cold, and slightly bitter.  There are wood chips, a leather couch, and the lemon-zest nose turns into orchard fruit.
Comment: It is a very dramatic bottle, indeed.  But holding it to try to read the label freezes your fingers – an exercise best done wearing heavy insulated gloves.

And it is possibly the best Johnnie Walker I’ve had.

Score: 7.8

 

GlenLivet Captains’ Reserve

GlenLivet Captain’s Reserve

40% colour 1.1.

Finished in cognac casks.

From the label: “Honey and apricot jam, notes of cinnamon bread and spicy liquorice.”  “Palette – mandarins in syrup, ripe poached pears and chocolate-dipped raisin.”  “Finish smooth and luxurious.”

Nose: Rich and deep (it was finished in cognac casks), with definitely the apricot jam.
Palette: Given the rich nose it is strangely thin, then oily.   It has a dry finish, with honey and a slight floral note on the end.
Finish: The finish is short, and the taste didn’t linger.
Comment: It stays together in the mouth. I have noticed other 40% drams which I felt have – for lack of a better expression – “split” into distinct layers of alcohol and water.  GlenLivet Captains’ Reserve does not do that!  A very good session whisky.

Score: 7.5

With the Grain

Hamish Guthrie was the woodwork teacher at my primary school.  Those days when the boys took home crudely constructed letter holders to their admiring mothers while the girls took home needle-worked gingham aprons, baked scones or curried sausages.

Mr Guthrie came from Scotland.  To our untrained ears his speech was almost incomprehensible.  To us boys, he may just as well have come from Saturn.

But Mr Guthrie taught us about grain.  His catch phrase, delivered with a broad brogue, was “always go with the grain”.   You cannot argue with that kind of logic.  Especially from a Scotsman.

Sadly, he was referring to the grain found in pieces of pine tree, rather than the grain found maturing in oak casks. 

A bit of history:

Grain whisky was once only used for blending as it tended to give the blend a bit more body.  As grain whisky was generally cheaper than malt, its use also helped to keep the price down.

But grain whiskies in recent years have become a “Thing” in their own right. 

Grain provides a flavour profile different from traditional malt whiskies – for example, a barley whisky will have a sweeter flavour and provide the caramel and brown sugar notes of a bourbon-matured malt.  Grain whisky is also more mild and lighter tasting than malt.  And is less likely to be influenced by geographic factors in the growing.

I read comment that grain whiskies could be a threat to malt whisky.  I don’t see a threat; I see two whisky types.  Like blends and single malts, I feel they can survive side by side perfectly amicably.  They complement each other; when you don’t need a powerhouse malt dram, pick a grain.

Let 2019 begin!

To welcome 2019 with style, we tasted some grain whiskies that were handy: three from Bruichladdich distillery, a blended offering from Grants, and a Springbank release of a local barley.  

To round out the tasting, Caidenhead bottling from a 2018 tasting is included in the notes.

Without further ado, let me introduce …..  the Grain Whisky Tasting!

Caidenhead’s North British Grain

1985 32yo.  Alcohol by Volume (ABV) 55.2%.  Colour: 1.2

Nose: Softly milky with a very slight sour note, but very attractive.

Palette: Sweet, a leather chair, a sugar sack and brown sugar,

Finish: medium

Comment: This was from a tasting last year of Caidenhead’s bottlings.  Of the seven expressions in the tasting, this was top.  Score: 9.0

Next come three samples from Bruichladdich.  All the samples were non-peated and bottled at 50% abv.

Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2010

Aged 7 years in oak casks.  Colour 0.7

Nose: The first nose was strong raisins – similar to a PX sherry whisky.  There is the sweet smell of a freshly-opened pouch of pipe tobacco.

Palette: New cardboard, and a lightly sour note.

Comment: This whisky didn’t really catch my imagination.  Score: 7.9

Bruichladdich Organic Barley 2009

Aged 8 years in oak casks.  Colour 0.3.

Nose: sweet and dusty, the aroma of an oak furniture factory.

Palette: sweet, with a late sourish note.

Comment: Again, it didn’t really grab my attention but it is getting better.  Score: 7.9

Bruichladdich Bere Barley 2008

Aged 10 years in Oak casks.  Colour 0.4.

The barley used in this whiskey is reportedly harvested on Orkney.

Nose: sweet sweaty socks (a poor mental picture, perhaps, but the nose is actually quite pleasant), cooked peas and creamy.

Palette: Aromatic, dry, a crepe bandage

Comment: This was the best of the three samples, and worthy of further investigation.  Score: 8.6

Grants Elementary Blended Grain Whisky

8 yo, 40% abv. Colour 1.1

Nose: from the bottle, it is sweet with a light nose of lemonade.  From the glas, the nose is soft and pleasant, but with not a lot to note.

Palette: The whisky is light.  There is a delicate rock melon flavour and a slight grassy note.  Pink candy floss from the fairground. 

Comment: This dram holds together well and could be good for a long evening with friends.  Score: 8.7

Springbank Local Barley

Aged 10 years, 57.3% abv.  Colour 0.8

Nose: Sweet, with heaps of golden syrup, and baked apples in the winter.

Palette: sweet, smooth, caramel and raisins.

Comment: Pat describes it as ”heaven in a bottle”.  There is an enduring warmth, a comfort for a cold night.

Finish: long, warm, with hot pepper.  Score: 9.4

Footnote: I purchased this bottle after a tasting 10 months ago.  I had the intention of anticipating its opening for a year or so.   But it did really have to come out to join this tasting, if only to show what can be done!

Overall comment:  A  great tasting, a wide range of experiences and a determination to experience and enjoy more grain whiskies!

Slainte, Mr Guthrie, wherever you may be.  Always go with the Grain!

Assorted Travel Drams

 

There a lot of tasting in this posting.

The whiskies come from a diverse range of distilleries – Speyside, Islay, the Isle of Arran, the Highlands and southern Central Otago.

There’s quite an age spread, too. 

Of those that have an age statement – the youngest is 3 years old, the oldest 22.

With alcohol ranging from 40% to a whopping 64.4%.

Are you seated comfortably?  Then let us begin.

Pat’s whiskies:

Pat likes finding – and subsequently tasting – some less-than-mainstream whiskies.  Which is fine with me, especially when he invites me to help with the tasting part.

His latest foray has been around the world of Tomatin. 

Tomatin is a Speyside distillery, located a bit south of Inverness.  Apart from its massive levels of production, one of Tomatin’s claims to fame is that it was the first Scottish distillery to be owned by a Japanese company. 

In the early 1970s Tomatin boasted 23 stills and a capacity of 12 million litres of whisky per year.  In 1985 the distillery went into liquidation, to be rescued the following year by the Takara Shuzo Corporation (now part of the Marubeni Group).

Tomatin remains a large distillery, although it is not particularly well known in its own right.  This is in part because, although the distillery currently annually produces around 5 million litres of whisky, 80% of the production goes to a variety of blended whiskies.

So here are three single malts, released under their own banner.

Tomatin 12yo (photo)

Bourbon and oloroso sherry casks.  43%, colour 1.2.

Nose: Apples and pip fruit.  Sweet and welcoming
Palette: Warm and sweet, with a slight but not unpleasant floral tinge of perfume
Finish: short-medium, oily.
Comment: A very nice and convivial dram that one can spend the evening consuming. 

Score 8.5

Tomatin 14yo  (photo)

Finished in port casks. 14yo, 46%, colour 1.3

Notes from the label include “Sort, smooth, sweet” “tawny port casks – held port for 50 years”, “red berries, sweet honey and rich toffee”.

Nose: Dark & rich, with fruit, fruit cake, thistles and wet nappies.
Palette: The first taste gives a quick chilli hit but that stops, leaving a slight bourbon-y bitterness.
Comment: There is a pink tinge to the whisky, originating from the port casks. It feels a it thin on the palette: it is 46% abv, but feels less.

Score: 7.5

Tomatin Wood (photo)

Matured in a combination of French, American and Hungarian casks.  46%, no age statement.

Nose: sawdust, leather, green pears, ground nutmeg, reduction brings smell of enamel paint
Palette: Sharp heat at first, drop off quickly.
Comment: It is fuller in the mouth than the 14yo, but for me it still falls short of completeness.

Score: 7.8

Next, a quick trip to the Ilse of Arran, below and to the left of Glasgow. 

In the sea. 

Between the mainland and the slightly suggestive Kintyre peninsula (made unnecessarily famous by Sir Paul McCartney).

Legend has it that there were many stills on Arran back a couple of hundred years.  But pressure for quantity over quality brought failure of distilling on the island and the old distilleries fell into disuse. 

When the new Arran distillery was built and a three year old cask was opened, just under 10 years ago, it was the first legal dram of Arran whisky in 160 years!

Incidentally, in 1997, two casks were presented to Her Majesty, the Queen, one each for Princes William and Harry.  These casks – now around 22 years old – are still in the Arran warehouse.  I wonder if they need a hand with that?

Arran, Marsala Cask Finish (photo) 2018 Edition bottling

Finished in Marsala wine barrels.  50%, colour 1.7

Nose: Sweet, rum & raisin chocolate, and leather.
Palette: Fruity and spicy (Cinnamon and nutmeg), with a very slight oak sourness (bourbon barrel).
Comment: Looking through the dram at the sunlight, the liquid has a reddish tinge from the Marsala. 

Score: 7.8

Back to Speyside.  This time to Glenfiddich distillery.

Glenfiddich is one of the most famous distilleries.  Their product is claimed to account for nearly 35% of all single malt sales in the world and sold in nearly 200 countries.

We’ve seen a lot of Glenfiddich over the years – from the superb accident that was Snow Phoenix, through the 18 and 21 year olds and the delicious Project XX to a few less than memorable drams. 

But this Havana Rum one is well up in the top end of Glenfiddich output.

Glenfiddich Havana Rum

21yo, 40%, finished in Cuban rum casks

Nose: Raisins, rum, oak, Christmas cake, with brandy butter and honey.
Palette: Very big in the mouth, with oil on the lips.  The honey comes through, with boysenberries, honeydew watermelon, and an after-taste of delicious nashi pear.
Comment: A delightful, rich and full dram.  Well worth going back for seconds.  And thirds.

Score: 9.0

Away to the most eastern and one of the oldest operating distilleries, Glen Garioch.  I was given this tasting dram of an Adelphi bottling by long-time friend, Graeme, a fellow-traveller in whisky tastings, idiosyncratic sport, and birthdays.

Adelphi Glen Garioch

22yo 58.6%, distilled 1993.  Colour 1.8 (super dark)

Nose: Rich and sweet, fruit cake, spices (nutmeg & cinnamon), alcohol
Palette: There is a thickish full mouth with a slightly bitter note, and chilli.   A large amount of heat, tending to over-ride any other flavours.  A note of leather at the end.
Finish: The heat stays medium to long on the tongue.
Comment: Has this been in a sherry cask at some stage?  A good cask would help to explain the colour.

Score 7.8

Now back west to Islay.

A few years ago we did an (unrecorded) vertical tasting of batches 1 to 3 of Bowmore Tempest.

Batch 2 was the best. 

A bottle remained that needed opening.

So I did.

Bowmore Tempest Batch 2, 56%

Nose: Salt air, beach, smoked bacon.
Palette: Earth, smoke, sweet bacon, and a taste of green bananas at the end.  Sweet, overall.
Comment:  A typically Bowmore aroma, with peat smoke and beaches.  I have moved away from peated whiskies over the last few years, but tasting this one shows it to be way better than expected!  It’s actually very drinkable.

Score 8.6

And now across to Cardrona Distilery in Otago, New Zealand.

I was lucky enough to review the first outputs from Cardrona – the “just Hatched” bourbon cask version, and its sherry cask sister – when they were released in December 2018.  I thought both expressions were superb, the sherry just coming out on top by a couple of points.

Kenny Vaugh, the distiller, was kind enough to offer my wife and I a tour of the distillery, an invitation I accepted with alacrity!   

The tour was an extremely educational two hours and covered all aspects of Cardrona’s production – The Source Barrel Gin, “the reid” Single Malt Vodka, Rose Rabbit Elderflower liqueur, and the latest Just Hatched 3 yo Solera whisky.

Cardrona “just hatched” Solera (Photo)

Sherry & Bourbon Casks (2 bourbon : 1 Sherry)

64.4%, colour 1.3

“Flower honey, vanilla, spice”

Nose: Wood, fruit, sacking, toffee, treacle, butterscotch, and alcohol burn (before reduction).
Palette: Leather and a sugar-sack, drying.  With reduction, it becomes mouth-filling and sweet, with a prevalent sherry finish.
Finish: Warming, long, tongue-numbing
Comment: Solera is the merging of two Bourbon cask to one Sherry cask.  It is good!  Pour it, taste it neat and then reduce with a little water.

Score: 9.1

Many thanks, Kenny.  Your hospitality and the fantastic tour were greatly appreciated.  And we will be back, to see what else comes out in the next few years!

SMWS Tasting

The thing about whisky is that there really is one for every taste.  Your taste will invariably differ to mine and what appeals to me may very well not appeal to you.

So it is with Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) tastings.  There are some bottlings that I love, others that make me wonder why anyone bothered.

But the thing about SMWS whiskies is not always the whiskies – it’s the descriptions the bottlings have that is so fascinating. 

The label notes for most whiskies get quite effusive, but the writers of the labels for SMWS bottlings have thrown out any pretence to understatement! 

Some totally random samples:

“The chewy, substantial palate gave us pomegranate syrup, blackcurrant and dried apricot, with a warming pink peppercorn and moist gingerbread finish.”

“A smouldering hay bail, and a hint of buttery marmite toast.”

“Finally, a return to more farmyard qualities with cow sheds, earth and wood embers.”

“Reduction produces notes of roasted pine cone, and frying bacon along with a meaty, fennel sausage note.”

“Hints of autumn trips to the milk bar.”

“A big old bag of kippers, wood smoke, grilled whelks, smoked mussels in brine, lemon juice, wood ash and fishing nets.”

“A dollop of mercurochrome and ash-rolled Goat’s cheese.“

All of which challenges me to up my game and produce better tasting notes – although competing with the Society notes might be a near-on impossible task!

Code 123.3.  “A cheeky little number” 61.7% abv, a 9-year-old from Glengoyne.

Nose: Raspberries and the deep aroma of an old leather couch, reminiscent of the upholstery in from my old and leaky Wolseley.  Dark chocolate and apricots.
Palette: the edgy sourness of the first-fill bourbon cask, hot pepper and chilli, a leatheriness, musty and creamy and orange peel.
Finish: long, with fruit, chocolate, and spice.
Comment: Glengoyne whisky is made in the Highlands, but it is sent to the Lowlands to mature. 

While this may appear an unnecessary cost, the truth is that the imaginary line between the Highlands and the Lowlands regions passes through the distillery.  The stillhouse is on the northern side of the line, and the warehouse is on the southern (lowlands) side.  

Thus, although they are in different “regions”, the travelling distance between manufacture and maturation is measured only in feet.  Still, it is a good story!

Score: 9.0

Code 136.2 “Paradise in a paradis” 60.4% abv, 3yo, Eden Mill

Nose: A first whiff of mayonnaise, then garden binder-twine string and hessian, old dress material, old leather, brown sugar and sherry.
Palette: Soft but strong in the mouth, with sacking, fruit, a slight sootiness, and cake fruit mix.  The taste is a bit immature (it’s only three!) with a lot of oak.  The end is chilli heat.
Finish: The finish is long, with the tannic mouth drying of stewed tea.
Comment:  This is the first output from the new Eden Mill distillery.  The dram is from a first fill oloroso hogshead and the strong flavour remains. Not at all a bad drop!  It will be interesting to see what later products emerge.

Score: 8.3

Code: 52.23 “ice cream and gorse by the sea” 58.9% abv, 11 yo, colour 0.6. Old Poultney

Nose: There are sweet lollies, grapefruit peel and marmalade, with vanilla ice cream.
Palette: Sweet and spices, cloves, cinnamon, and arrowmint chewing gum.  It is dry, with a hint of aniseed.  Adding a little water smoothes it out. And the last taste remaining is chilli heat.
Finish: Mouth-numbing and dry.
Comment: 9 years in bourbon, followed by two in a second fill PX cask.  Yum.

Score: 8.5

Code: 4.249 “The mermaid’s marmalade” 64.6% abv, 13yo, Highland Park (Orkneys)

Nose: There is fruit and slight smoke, with a slightly oily aroma.
Palette: Peat is present, but surprisingly sweet rather than an overriding bacon note.  Charred salt and rye toast are also present.  Reduction with water accentuates the heat.
Finish: It is a light peat finish and a hot tongue.  Not drying. Medium long, and the heat stays.
Comment: Refill oloroso.

Score: 8.3

Code: PTB M01 “Peat Ferrie Batch 3”, 50% abv, colour 0.3, 10yo blended peat malt

Nose: The first nose is slight smoke, vanilla ice cream, licorice and sandsoap. The overall impression is delicate  and slightly floral.
Palette: The floral stays in the taste, with peat.  Water smooths the drink, and lowers the peatiness, but soot and coal remain.
Finish: The light peat flavour stays.  And stays.
Comment: This brew was blended by the Society.  Personally, they could have saved themselves the trouble.

Score: 7.2

Code: 29.253 “Drifting and dreaming” 57.1, colour 0.1, 19yo Laphroaig

Nose: Peated and very smoky.
Palette: There is too much peat that is over-riding whatever else there is to offer.
Finish: Quite drying.
Comment: From a refill ex-bourbon cask.  The peat is very prominent.

Score: 7.1


Overall view for the evening?  A variety of offerings, some of which I covet and others I happily leave to others to covet.  But there is no uninteresting whisky tasting, and this one gets a sound score of 9.0 from me!

Four random tastings

Pre script: In the November 2018 edition of Whisky magazine, editor Rob Allanson noted that the question he is most often asked and never knows how to answer is “What is your favourite whisky?”

Quite.

My favourite is maybe one of the last five I tasted.  Or it may be one of the next five I’m going to taste.

Who knows?

But we keep on looking, because the fun is in the looking!

Here are four totally random tastings from January 2019

The first is a sauterne cask finished Arran from the Highlands.  The second and third are Speyside drams: a 25 year old from Tomintoul and the Longmorn 16 year old.  Fourth is the travel retail Highland Park Einar from their Warrior series.

There is connections between them.  But not much.

They are all single malt Scotch whiskies.

They all came in bottles (although one was a miniature).

And they are all rather nice.

Apart from those coincidences, see for yourselves.

 

The Arran Malt Sauterne Cask Finish, Non-coloured, non-chill filtered, 50% abv Colour 0.7

The label advises that the whisky has been matured in traditional oak casks then ‘finished” in a sauterne cask. 

In the Bad Old Days of New Zealand wine, sauterne was one of the wines of choice.  It usually lurked in the lower shelves of the refrigerator in a cardboard box with a plastic liner.

Maturing whisky in sauterne barrels is a much better idea!

Nose: earthy and light.
Palette: Dry and tannic, with the effervescence and “fizz” that traditionally comes from a sauterne finish.
Finish: Long on the heat, slightly oily tongue, but quite a pleasant dram. Comment: very much as I would have expected from a sauterne-matured whisky.  It is dry, light (almost watery, but not) and slightly effervescent.  The 50% abv holds it together for a long time after the swallow.  A nice drop, indeed.
Overall score: 8.2

Tomintoul 25 year old
This is described on the label as “Speyside Glenlivet”.  40% abv, colour 1.2.

Nose: Peaches and stone fruit, with furniture polish and vanilla.
Palette: vanilla (from an unspecified bourbon cask?), wood chips and new boxwood, thick and creamy, mouth-lining.
Finish: medium/short.
Comment: This whisky arrived on the table as an unexpected miniature bottle: it had to be tasted, because when else were you going to get to try a 25 yo Tomintoul?  It was worth it!
The deep colour is indicative of the age, as is the smoothness of the dram. The shorter finish means that the flavour doesn’t last as long I would like. 
Overall score: 9.0

Longmorn, 16 year old. 48% abv, colour 1.3

Nose: an old leather lounge suite, sweet and fruit cake with a hint of citrus. Palette: sherry and sweet , with the note of an oloroso cask.  Hot on the tongue, sea shore and rock pools, leather polish with an earthy end taste. Finish: mouth-lining oily on the lips and tongue.  Medium length. Comment: I have yet to meet a Longmorn whisky I didn’t enjoy.  I like this one, too!
Overall score: 8.7

Highland Park “Einar” (Travel Retail Only). 40% abv, colour 1.1

Nose: Rock pools and seaweed on the beach after rain. A taste note like the slight kerosene taste in a good riesling.
Palette: sweet, hot at the front of tongue, seaweed continues to the taste.  Oily on the mouth, salt on the lips.
Finish: Medium.
Comment:  A nice colour, a slight peatiness.  If they had kept the abv up another 3 to 5 percentage points it might be more impressive.  But overall, it’s good.
Overall score: 8.0

With the Grain

Hamish Guthrie was the woodwork teacher at my primary school.  Those days when the boys took home crudely constructed letter holders to their admiring mothers while the girls took home needle-worked gingham aprons, baked scones or curried sausages.

Mr Guthrie was from Scotland.  To our untrained ears his speech was almost incomprehensible.  To us boys, he may just as well have come from Saturn.

But Mr Guthrie taught us about grain.  His catch phrase, delivered with a broad brogue, was “always go with the grain”.   You cannot argue with that kind of logic.  Especially from a Scotsman.

Sadly, he was referring to the grain found in pieces of pine tree, rather than grain found maturing in oak casks. 

A potted history of grain whisky:

Grain whisky was once only used for blending as it tended to give the blend a bit more body.  As grain whisky was generally cheaper than malt, its use also helped to keep the price down.

But grain whiskies in recent years have become a “Thing” in their own right. 

Grain provides a flavour profile different from traditional malt whiskies – for example, a barley whisky will have a sweeter flavour and provide the caramel and brown sugar notes of a bourbon-matured malt.  Grain whisky is also more mild and lighter tasting than malt.  And is less likely to be influenced by geographic factors in the growing.I have read comment that grain whiskies could be a threat to malted whisky.  I don’t see a threat; I see two whisky types.  Like blends and single malts, I feel they can survive side by side perfectly amicably.  They complement each other: when you don’t need a powerhouse malt dram, pick a grain.

Let 2019 begin!

To welcome 2019 with style, we tasted some grain whiskies that were handy: three from Bruichladdich distillery, a blended offering from Grants, and a Springbank release of a local barley.  

To round out this tasting, a Caidenheads bottling from a 2018 tasting is included in the notes.

Without further ado, let me introduce …..  the Grain Whisky Tasting!

Caidenhead’s North British Grain

1985 32yo.  Alcohol by Volume (ABV) 55.2%.  Colour: 1.2

Nose: Softly milky with a very slight sour note, but very attractive.
Palette: Sweet, a leather chair, a sugar sack and brown sugar,
Finish: medium
Comment: This was from a tasting last year of Caidenhead’s bottlings.  Of the seven expressions in the tasting, this was top. 
Score: 9.0

Next come three samples from Bruichladdich.  All the samples were non-peated and bottled at 50% abv.

Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2010

Aged 7 years in oak casks.  Colour 0.7

Nose: The first nose was strong raisins – similar to a PX sherry whisky.  There is the sweet smell of a freshly-opened pouch of pipe tobacco.
Palette: New cardboard, and a lightly sour note.
Comment: This whisky didn’t really catch my imagination. 
Score: 7.9

Bruichladdich Organic Barley 2009

Aged 8 years in oak casks.  Colour 0.3.

Nose: sweet and dusty, the aroma of an oak furniture factory.
Palette: sweet, with a late sourish note.
Comment: Again, it didn’t really grab my attention but it is getting better.  Score: 7.9

Bruichladdich Bere Barley 2008

Aged 10 years in Oak casks.  Colour 0.4.

The barley used in this whiskey is reportedly harvested on Orkney.

Nose: sweet sweaty socks (a poor mental picture, perhaps, but the nose is actually quite pleasant), cooked peas and creamy.
Palette: Aromatic, dry, a crepe bandage.
Comment: This was the best of the three samples, and worthy of further investigation. 
Score: 8.6

Grants Elementary Blended Grain Whisky

8 yo, 40% abv. Colour 1.1

Nose: from the bottle, it is sweet with a light nose of lemonade.  From the glas, the nose is soft and pleasant, but with not a lot to note.
Palette: The whisky is light.  There is a delicate rock melon flavour and a slight grassy note.  Pink candy floss from the fairground. 
Comment: This dram holds together well and could be good for a long evening with friends. 
Score: 8.7

Springbank Local Barley

Aged 10 years, 57.3% abv.  Colour 0.8

Nose: Sweet, with heaps of golden syrup, and baked apples in the winter.
Palette: sweet, smooth, caramel and raisins.
Comment: Pat describes it as ”heaven in a bottle”.  There is an enduring warmth, a comfort for a cold night.
Finish: long, warm, with hot pepper. 
Score: 9.4

Footnote: I purchased this bottle after a tasting 10 months ago.  I had the intention of anticipating its opening for a year or so.   But it did really have to come out to join this tasting, if only to show what can be done!

Overall comment:  A  great tasting, a wide range of experiences and a determination to experience and enjoy more grain whiskies!

Slainte, Mr Guthrie, wherever you may be.  Always go with the Grain!

A side note: my sister took home curried sausages that displayed a definite tinge of olive-green.  My father proudly (and, in retrospect, foolishly) ignored the unusual colour and ate some. 

He was violently ill.

Recent Openings and Christmas Spirits

Recent Openings and Christmas Spirits

Isn’t serendipity a coincidence?  The things the Universe brings when you weren’t really expecting but you leave it open to see what turns up.

You may remember the article about the opening of the Amrut Spectrum and how impressed I was.

Daniel asked if I could take him a sample, and he was prepared to trade a couple of interesting sherry-based ones that he had.

A fair swap!

Daniel’s Samples

Sample 1: Glendronach 15yo, PX, 54.7% abv

Colour 1.5. 

Nose: A strong nose of pipe tobacco, followed by fresh raspberries mixed with citrus peel, cloves, and granny’s Christmas pudding with brandy sauce. 

Palette:  As you would expect with a PX sherry cask whisky, the taste opens with a mouthful of sweet, spicy sherry.  Then comes orange peel and the cloves returning. 

Finish: The finish is long, with the flavour lingering but not the cask-strength heat.

Comment: I thought the nose was delightful and marked it at 9.2.  I was a little disappointed to find that the nose promised rather more than the taste delivered.  However, overall this is still a deliciously good drop!

Score: 8.8 

Sample 2: Adelphi Glen Rothes 7yo, 66.7% abv

The colour of 1.7 is the signature Glen Rothes sherry finish colouring. 

Nose: Here is an old leather couch and brown sugar, wrapped in a crepe bandage. 

Palette: The taste is thick with a slight sour note, predominantly from a lot of oak and an oloroso sherry cask.

Finish: My mouth was left with a feeling of tannic-y drying, but not unpleasantly so.  

Comment:  When the choice is between an Adelphi bottling and something else, I will almost invariably go for the Adelphi – they are consistently appealing.  Although my marking here is not at the top end, the 7yo Glen Rothes is well within my expected marking range for Adelphis (Adelphii?),.

Score: 8.8

The Christmas Spirits

There is a long-standing family tradition that we have created over the last couple of years.  It is called the family Christmas meal, and involves my wife’s brothers and their families.

It may not come as a huge surprise that a large part of the tradition involves whisky.  One year the whisky bit centred around an Advent calendar that contained twelve assorted single malt samples.  They were only small bottles, but it was a very Happy Christmas indeed.

This year the event went up a gear.  The invitee net was spread to include several items of note: two Glenlivet Nadurras, the Cardrona Just Hatched Sherry Cask, and Graeme.

The Glenlivet, “Nadurra” Bourbon finish.  59.8% abv

Colour 0.7.  Finished in a first fill white oak bourbon cask.

The expression “finished in” on a label is not really helpful if you’re trying to use the information to determine what a whisky might taste like before you purchase it.  Was the whisky finished in that barrel for 5 years? One year? Six months?  Who knows. 

Nose: lollies, airfix glue, sweet nuts (cashews or almonds), vanilla.

Palette: Full front of mouth, bourbon burn, tannic.  2nd mouthful is softer, greater heat.

Finish: long, slightly tannic-y drying but nice.

Comment:  This is the second time I’ve tried this whisky (the first was at a tasting session 9 months ago).  I bought a bottle of its sister dram (the oloroso finish version) as it catered more to my taste for sherried drams, but the bourbon finish is still very good and scores highly in consequence.

Score: 8.9

The Glenlivet, “Nadurra” Oloroso sherry finish, 60.3% abv

Colour 1.3

Nose: Leather, rich, fruit cake.

Palette: Heat!, sweet, fruit cake

Finish: fruit cake, oloros sour

Comment:  In my hand-written notes I put “unremarkable”, but this is not intended to minimise the whisky or be derogatory.  At 60.3% abv this is not a petty dram at all, quite the contrary.  Other whiskies at that strength hit you very hard, mostly with alcohol burn and little else.  This Nadurra  in exceptionally drinkable and – my other note – “goes down very nicely”.

Score: 9.2

So here endeth 2018, not with a whimper but with a bang!

I have been very fortunate to have found some amazing drams to taste, and there have been some ho-hum ones too.   But, as with so many things, at the end of the day beauty in whisky is in the taste of the beholder.  What fascinates me may well bore you to tears, and I will be last to say you’re wrong!

So thank you to all the distillers & suppliers and tasters.  Roll on 2019 and some more drams to sample!

Slainte